As we descended from the mountain.... From one of the last meals with Super and his grandparents. These folks were so accommodating in very way possible, even buying me warm slippers to wear in the house. Grandfather is 74 and still walking up the mountain, along with his wife. Hardy people, indeed
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How wonderful it was to my soul when I first sighted mountains in Shanxi Province, something I don't see around Qiqihar. So, I was quite happy about mountains in both provinces we were visiting. Actually, it was the fact of mountains in Sichuan Province that first sparked my interest in making this trip. The city of DaZhou sits sprawled out at the foot of Feng Huang Mountain, with its streets extending part-way up the side. So from Super's home we set out walking to the top. Two or three hours later we were there. This shot gives you an idea of how steep some of the stairs were. Can you see the exhaustion on Super's face? We still had a good distance to go! Another shot, from the top, giving you an idea once again of the steepness. I'm amazed at all the work done just to build the steps. Not all was steep stairs. Sometimes we took the winding road up the side of the mountain, and sometimes as walk, such as this one. What really struck me with this walk as we neared the top is the design which is composed of little stones set in place in concrete. A view of DaZhou part-way up the mountain. Not a good day for pictures! And high atop the mountain..... In China it's common to see groups of people dancing in public areas, morning, noon, and night. Here's one of the several such sights in DaZhou, which I think is really great. I wish we saw this kind of thing in the USA. Another common sight in DaZhou of ways to carry goods. I was very tempted to buy one of the back baskets. After leaving Kobe and his family, we took a 21 hour train (sleeper car again) to Sichuan where another student lives, this one with his grandparents. Here's a video of some of the scenery along the way, a different country once again from Heilingjiang Province where I'm located. Arrival time was 4:40 AM and there waiting was my student, Super. Upon our arrival at their apartment, his grandparents were at the door to welcome us. In contrast to Kobe's family, they live in the city next to the Zhou River. In spite of the fact that grandfather was a medical doctor for 40 years, they live in a sparely furnished home. As I understand, it's quite true that doctors in China don't make the salaries American doctors do (or at least didn't). I think there's quite a contrast. Here's a scene from the living room where we would sit around an electric plate (dubbed "the campfire") to warm ourselves (in this part of the China there's no heat in buildings). We had to wear our coats in the house all the time. But the hospitality was warm and generous. While in Qixian we visited the home of the Qiao family (Qiao Jia Da Yuan) dating back to over one hundred years ago, a large compound of courtyards surrounded by living quarters. The movie "The Red Lantern" was filmed at this location. (In 2010 while home I borrowed the film from the local library.) The Qiao family was famous in China for their ability in business, being quite wealthy. Then, before taking the train on to Sichuan, it was back into Qixian to check out an ancient section called Xi Guan. I found this area to be quite intriguing. It was like walking down old town China without polish and commercialization. It remains as a truer picture of ancient China to me. Businesses exist in this area and people live there, but it's not a tourist trap as is a place Allen and I visited later on in Chengdu. And now starting at its main street.... And then there is shoe repair out there on the street! Kobe and 2 of his friends greeted us when our train pulled into Qixian. What delightful boys, both of whom wanted English names, so Jack and James it was. Jack and James spent the night with us, so Allen (my traveling companion) slept in the corner bed, while I and the other 2 boys shared the big bed, stretched across from side to side. We each had our own set of covers. I was given extra padding underneath - it was like camping out. Kobe slept in his parents' room. Kobe is far left, Jack sitting on the bed, Allen in the blue coat, with James on the right. The next morning we were treated to homemade noodles, as well as homemade mutton soup and tomato soup to put on the noodles, along with some other items. (Kobe's mother cooks on a charcoal stove in a very simple kitchen which is part of the parents' room. Amazing what she can do!) Kobe with his parents. Farewell ! (I love this picture.) First stop on our trip was Qixian, a small city in central Shanxi. Kobe, one of my Freshman students, and his parents live in a large village outside Qixian. This village looks quite different from any in America, as you will see. This is the entrance to Kobe's yard. All the homes are connected, with a high wall surrounding each yard. Entry into the yard is through a gate. As you look at the picture, you'll see the next entry down. It looks like this all the way down the narrow, dirt street. Here's the other side of the street - one solid wall all the way down, with no break. It's like this throughout the entire village. You can see entries on the other side of the street. Now we look through the gate and into Kobe's yard. And here is their home, consisting of 3 rooms, none interconnecting. To go from one room to the next you have to step outdoors first. Heavy quilts cover the doorways to help keep out the cold. There in the corner, behind a 3 ft. brick wall and next to the high outside wall, is the toilet. As is the case with me these days (part of aging), constipation often accompanies traveling. I took an AloeLax on the train and wouldn't you know it started working soon after we arrived at Kobe's home. Four occasions got me well acquainted with the bathroom! I could only think of my brother Dick who loved outhouses. We would have had fun talking about this experience. As our train moved into Shanxi Province I was struck by the deep ravines cutting through the land. Also the plateaus coming to an abrupt end. (I don't remember enough terrain terms to know how to describe accurately what I'm seeing! Maybe someone can help.) The land is barren with soil that looks like nothing would grow. But it only awaits spring to show otherwise, and it appears every flat piece of land is used for planting.
My trip to the interior of China began over 10 days ago, first taking us from Qiqihar to Harbin where we caught the train to Taiyuan, the capital of Shanxi Province. While in the Harbin VIP Waiting Room, I couldn't help but notice this very large painting on one of the walls. St. Sophia's Church, as represented in the painting, crowned with a cross, is among the pride and joys of Harbin, now serving simply as an historic site, no longer as a place of worship. Nonetheless, she stands exalted and proud in the middle of Harbin as an enduring symbol of Christianity in this land where, at one time, every effort was made to stamp out faith.... in this land where the official doctrine is one of atheism.
Last week while visiting a Chinese friend in Daqing I learned about one of the truly admirable modern day heroes of China. Wang Jingxi was a contemporary of my parents, born to poor farming family in 1923. He learned hard work during his childhood, both in serving as a shepherd and coal-carrier, at age 15 finally leaving home and heading to the oilfields. In February 1960 he enthusiastically led his drill team to open a new oilfield in Daqing, in spite of the overwhelming odds of cold and snow. No comfortable accommodations were awaiting them. When they arrived to that undeveloped area, he and his team had to move by mere brute strength all the heavy drilling equipment needed for the job. Dedicated to the task, he labored night and day, even to the point of risking his own health and life. Finally the dedication paid off....oil was struck. Daqing is now one of the major oilfields in China. _Wang Jingxi was dubbed "Iron Man" for his display of great strength and perseverance. Unfortunately, he fell to stomach cancer in 1970. The following year a Memorial Hall, an imposing, impressive structure,was built to his memory, in which can found the chronicle of his story along with an abundance of photos. I was quite impressed and inspired by his story, again reminded that sacrifice and commitment precede the accomplishment of great things. |